FALL IS FOR PLANTING
I am sure you have heard the term “fall is for planting” by now. The problem is enthusiasm for planting does not extend into the fall. In the spring we can’t wait to get out into our garden but in the fall our gardens have worn us out and we want a rest. However the advantages of fall planting are many so we need to listen to Mother Nature and take advantage of her timing.
The strength of any plant is in the root system it develops. Spring is when plants put on new vegetative growth. In the fall plants start going dormant and top growth no longer takes place but roots continue to grow. By planting in the fall we can develop a good root system that will support strong vigorous growth in the spring.
Fall plantings suffer less transplanting shock. The weather gets cooler and plants require less care.
In the fall plants have become hardened off. Their tissue is no longer soft and tender as the plant has adjusted to the rigors of a summer life. Once plant tissue becomes hardened the plant can stand up to greater stress.
Keeping the soil moist is easier in the fall. The intense heat is over and the days are shorter. Less water is evaporates from the soil and less water transpires from the leaves.
Less wilting takes place and less strain is put on the root system when proper water is available to the plant. . Top growth does not predominate but root growth continues to take place making for a stronger plant.
In the fall less frequent watering is needed saving more time.
Fall planting has many advantages. When working with nature, organic gardeners achieve great success.
Timing is important but there are also many other considerations that need to be addressed. Preparation of the soil bed has always been my number one priority. Soil structure and adequate quantities of organic matter is what develops a good food web and allows deep root systems to develop. The strength of any plant is in its root system and sustainability is related to the Rizosphere that each plant can build up for itself. The whole ecosystem surrounding each plant is what gives each plant its strength. There is a whole world of interaction that takes place in our soils. We need to enhance it not destroy it. This can only be done when we understand what takes place in the soil. The difficulty in understanding is that we cannot see what is taking place. Always prep your soil when planting and always use only organic products.
My formula for the preparation of a new planting bed for perennials
1 Bale of Peat Moss (3.8 cu.ft.)
1 Bag of Coir 2 cu. ft.
2 Bags of Lobster Compost (1 cu. ft.)
2 Bags of Penoboscot Blend (1 cu. ft.)
2 bags of Dehydrated Cow Manure (1 cu. ft.)
(2 bags of Black Earth organic top soil (1 cu. ft.)
4.5 lbs. Bone Meal
1 lb of Mineral Rock Dust (Azomite)
5 lbs. of lime
1.4 Myke Annual & Perennial
8 lbs. of Plant-tone
If your perennial bed is doing poorly because of poor soil preparation, the best thing to do is remove all your plants, divide those that need dividing, prepare your soil and replant old perennials and add new ones to make a more beautiful garden. If your soil structure is good you can just plant and add some Plant-tone fertilizer. A good sequence of bloom is important. Curving lines if possible always add to the interest. My favorite line is a Hoogarth S curve.
Trees and Shrubs can use this same formula when bed preparation is taking place. However larger trees and shrubs are individually planted and each hole is individually prepared.
When planting a tree or shrub dig a hole 3 times the size of the root ball. Add to the existing soil Plant-tone for alkaline plants and Holly-tone for acid loving plants. Mix a 1/3 combination peat moss and compost to the existing soil. Use Lobster mix compost with the alkaline loving plants and Penobscott Blend with the acid loving plants. Make sure your hole, is deep enough so that you can place at least 6 inches of mixed soil at the bottom of the hole. Measure the height of your ball so that when you place it in the hole the top of the ball is even with your soil. Fill the sides in with your mixture of soil and pack it tightly so there are no air pockets. Give your plant a good watering and place a 2 inch layer of mulch on top. On container plants the roots should be sliced before planting.
Water your plants 2 times a week by placing the hose directly on the root ball. Make sure your soil stays moist but not waterlogged so check it each time before watering. As the days get shorter and cooler reduce the frequency to one time a week or less. When it rains you do not have to water. Over watering is as much or more harmful than under watering. When you over water, there is no oxygen in the soil and plant roots die when you under water there is not enough water for the plant to live.
